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Hitting the Wall

You have to see a ‘proper’ bit of the Wall when you visit China, so we’d made arrangements to join a tour. We could have had a private guide and driver for the day, but that would have cost ¥800 (£80), plus admission charges, plus cable car tickets, and we would have had to buy our own lunch; that lot quickly adds up.

For the bargain price of ¥740, we joined a small (9 people), all-inclusive tour. (Apparently this was a very ‘special’ price, a discount of at least ¥100 each. Allegedly.)

The downside of joining a tour is that some of the ‘extras’ aren’t always wanted. We were picked up from our hotel at 7:10 (yawn), then had to criss-cross Beijing to make pick-ups from two other hotels. Then a brief stop for a photo opportunity near the Water Cube and Bird’s Nest (mostly a waste of time because of the haze/fog/smog). A visit to one of the many jade factories (each of which claims to be the only place that guarantees to sell you genuine jade), where your group are promised a ‘special’ discount (but only on items which aren’t already discounted, which is just about everything except the really expensive stuff).

And so, three-and-a-half hours after leaving our hotel, we’re still not at the Wall, despite being told it was just two hours’ drive away…

[Later…]
The bus dropped us at one of the car parks beneath the Wall at Mutianyu at 13:10, five hours after we were picked up. We were told to regroup in two hours, but before we could get on the Wall our guide had to pick up our entrance tickets and cable car tickets, leaving us about 90 minutes by the time we’d ridden the cable car. That was probably enough for anybody, unless you’d gone fully-equipped for an expedition; it was very hot and humid up on the Wall, as the many sweaty-looking photos prove.

Clare, veteran of many Wall trips, thought this was one of the best sections that she’d seen: the wall was in reasonably good condition without having been overly repaired; there were few enough visitors that it wasn’t too difficult to get a clear photograph; and the Wall itself was quite undulating and winding, with a variety of steps and slopes.

After traipsing along the Wall for as long as we had time for, stopping for a selection of arty and cheesy photos along the way (including some in a Black Horse cap; pity it doesn’t fit!), and running the gauntlet of the obligatory tat vendors (“You wan T-shirt? One dorrar!” “One dollar? Really?” “OK, OK… two for a dorrar!”), we met back at the minibus and were taken five minutes back down the road to a “fish” “restaurant” that we’d passed on the way up. The food was pretty good, but would have been better if the Spanish couple hadn’t taken a third of the fish for themselves. The complimentary drinks weren’t excessively generous: the standard over-sized shot glass each; extra beer, for example, was ¥20 (£2) per large bottle.

On the way out, we stopped to admire the restaurant’s fish pond (you can catch your own lunch), and noticed that the header tank was used for beer storage. Also dead fish storage. Lovely. I hope that was one that had been recently caught…

Another hour’s drive now, off to some sort of tea ceremony place; something else we didn’t know about when we booked this trip.

[Later still…]
So, the tea ceremony place wasn’t very ceremonious, more a basic introduction to different kinds of Chinese tea, their origins, and their alleged beneficial properties. And, of course, an opportunity to try to sell us overpriced tea, tea sets, novelty mugs that change pattern when they’re full of hot water, etc. I think I’ll just wait until the next time we’re in a local Chinese supermarket. Either that, or get it from Pumphrey’s as usual.

We arrived back at the hotel over ten hours after leaving. Thoroughly knackered and ready for bed again, but it was a pretty good day out at the price. We’re both suffering from whatever lurgi was going round the teachers at school, with added assistance from the delight Beijing air quality, so it’s an evening in bed until we wake up, and maybe join the others at the local KTV place. If we don’t wake up… well, we obviously needed the sleep.

 
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Posted by on Sunday 12 August 2012 in China

 

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A Walk in the Park

On Sunday morning, rather than going into school, I decided to have a bit of an explore by myself. I’d heard there was a nice park nearby, and I’d seen a green-coloured area on the map provided by the hotel (to be returned at the end of our stay!), so I headed for that. It turned out to be a different park to the one that people had been talking about, a little further away but definitely worth the walk.

Heading into the park, the first thing you encounter is a very fancy-looking bridge which is just being finished off. This is quite surprising, as I get the impression that much of the rest of the park was completed for the 2008 Olympics, and many things in China don’t seem to get updated once they’re done, but it’s clear that this park is being kept up-to-date.

Through the main entrance, past the Garden Notes, you can see the top of the large sculpture which I suppose is meant to evoke the Olympic rings, and start to encounter many of the Olympic-themed pieces that are scattered around the park.

There are plaques on the ground with some statistics for each of the modern Olympics; apparently the 1968 Mexico Olympics was “the first time, the gender and tonic checking was officially applied.” Who knew?! There are slight mistranslations like this everywhere in China; whoever does their proof-reading should be who shot… I mean, fired… actually, it’s China; I was probably right first time.

When you get in to the main area of the park, everything becomes very tranquil. It almost seems too stereotypical that there’s an old man sat in the shade by the edge of the lake, bike parked behind him, playing his erhu.

Wandering around the various spaces in the park, each with its own identity, you’re likely to encounter more stereotypes: a middle-aged man doing Tai Chi, or a group of old woman doing their daily exercises.

The lake itself features a large water fountain feature, which occasionally starts and spouts water in time to some gentle chiming music issue from hidden speakers in a pile of rocks at the side of the lake.

Leaving the park and getting back to the hectic traffic comes as a complete shock to the system, like being woken up by a loud alarm clock. As usual, more tower blocks are being built wherever you look. I walked past rows of car workshops: the “workshop” is actually the street, where I saw everything from oil changes to engine rebuilds being done; the buildings only seem to be used for parts storage. I also found the local equivalent of B&Q: outside, rows of tradesmen are waiting with their scooters, advertising their services by the tools attached to the back seat. Painters with rollers, builders with drills, carpenters with saws, etc.

Further on, I found small lanes lined with market stalls. Having no-one with me to act as a distraction while I took photos, I didn’t feel like I could take pictures on individual stalls, so maybe I’ll have to go back with an accomplice.

I’m still trying to get a good photo to capture the craziness of the traffic, but you get some idea on the photo of the junction: all those vehicles just keep moving, nobody ever seems to come to a stop.

Returning to the hotel, past where some drains are still bubbling up foul smelling water, I was glad to see that somebody had put a ‘wet floor’ sign out; I might never have noticed otherwise!

 
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Posted by on Tuesday 7 August 2012 in China

 

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Follow These Rules

Had a walk round this morning, including a trip through the Garden Park (or to give it its full title, Qinhuangdao Economic & Technology Development Zone Garden Park). More pictures from there in a separate post, but I thought the park rules were worth sharing separately, for your amusement:

Garden Notes

Forest Park is a opened public welfare park in the Development Zone. For neat , grace and safe environment, visitors should follow the principles below:
1. Keep off the grass and trees ,don’t trample on the lawn or discount flowers.
2. No smoking in the fire district area
3. Any unit or individuals shouldn’t gathering or organising activities in the park without approval.
4. Protect the environment of the park ,don’t drop litter , spitting or defecate indiscriminately.
5. Don’t catch birds. No fireworks allowed in the park.
6. Please to be a civilised person. Do not climbing, trampling, laying, swimming or do things that may threatened others’ safe.
7. Don’t selling in the park.
8. Dangerous items and pets are not allowed to be taken into the park.
9. Please take care of facilities in the park, do not scribbling.
10. Please do not make a racket, begging or alcoholism. Do not fighting and gamble.
11. Motor vehicle and Non-motor vehicle (except the baby carriage wheel chair) please do not enter the park.
12. Please observe the clauses above. The Park Administrative Office have rights to inculcate and fine the visitors who ignore the advice. For the impudent visitors ,Park Administrative Office have rights to call the Public Security Organs.

The Park Administrative Office

So, consider yourself told!

 
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Posted by on Sunday 5 August 2012 in China

 

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Heaven and Head

The teachers’ “day off” had been postponed from Thursday to Friday, because the weather forecast looked better. You can, of course, guess what happened…

But the transport was already booked, and a lot of people still wanted to see the sights anyway (despite some having a little trouble focussing due to the previous night’s overindulgence), so we all traipsed on to the coach and set off for the First Pass Under Heaven, the easternmost gate of the Great Wall (not to be confused with the First and Greatest Pass Under Heaven, which is obviously at the other end of the Wall).

I don’t think we took the most direct route, as it seemed to take much longer than expected, but we did see some interesting sights along the way (through the rain-blurred windows of the coach).

When we got there, it soon became obvious that brightly-coloured raincoats, accessorised with umbrellas, where the in-thing this season:

… although the local wildlife went for the transparent poncho look:

Much of the wall at this point seems to have been rebuilt (or perhaps just regularly maintained) and is in very good condition:

… but the same can’t be said of the local residences, literally within the shadow of the wall:

After we’d managed to round everybody up, with a slight delay while some locals had their photos taken with these exotic Westerners on the steps of our bus, we set off for the Old Dragon’s Head, the point where the eastern end of the Wall meets the sea.

By this time, the rain was getting increasingly heavy and tempers were getting shorter, so the Old Dragon’s Head didn’t get all the attention it deserved, especially when battling through a sea of umbrellas being carried exactly at eye height.

I did manage to make a new friend though, and he certainly didn’t seem to be bothered by the weather.

 
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Posted by on Saturday 4 August 2012 in China

 

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My turn now

It’s a weekday afternoon, and I’m sat in Newcastle Airport with a beer (well, Guinness, but it’ll do). I feel like I should be on my way to Copenhagen for a business trip, as that’s the only reason I’ve ever been here for the last few years, but not this time…

This time, I’m on my way to China to find out more about the beer that’s 27p a pint meet my beloved wife (ahem) so she can show me all the sights, sounds, and smells that she’s been talking about for the previous two summers.

I hope nobody looks too closely at my hold luggage, as they might wonder what I’m planning on doing when I get over there: chocolate, Marmite, cereal, Vitamin C tablets, coffee filters, and… umm… pipe cleaners! All by special request of the various teachers who are there already, who have been my offered my services (strictly for purchasing of requisites, I understand).

Nearly time to go for my first flight, and hope that the online check-in has left me with the seat I wanted. Not too much problem or the first leg, but I don’t fancy being stuck in a bad seat for the 10 hours or so of the final flight to Beijing.

I should stop wasting my battery now, and get myself ready for boarding. On my way to China, but first I have to survive… Paris!

 
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Posted by on Wednesday 1 August 2012 in China

 

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